Cleansing

When you handle animals, it's important to clean yourself so as not to catch diseases. This is especially true with Pokemon although the hygiene is of a more spiritual kind, which is why - after our delicious, nutritious trip to the aforementioned cafe - we decided it was time to get Zen.

The two big religions of Japan are Buddhism and Shintoism, both of which have a fondness for temples. Due to Tokyo's rapid, massive expansion many neighbourhoods are chock-full of historic sacred sites, ranging from tiny roadside shrines to huge complexes. We decided to go big for our first, and wandered into Zojoji Temple, the main one for the Jodo-shu sect of Buddhism.

We were lucky enough to arrive just as a service started, when eight monks appeared in the gold-leafed interior and intoned chants while banging drums. I couldn't understand a word, of course, but reflected on the shared pattern of all religions with our bells, incense, hymns, candles, collection boxes, etc. Why can't we all just get along?

After that it was time to jump forward into cutting edge tech at The National Museum of Emerging Science and Innovation, a huge place on an artificial island in Tokyo Bay, accessed by a driver-less fully automated train, naturally. The highlight here was a demonstration of Asimo, the world's most advanced humanoid robot. As the curtain lifted and the robot sprinted towards the seated crowd I barely stifled a scream! I've seen documentaries like The Terminator and Blade Runner and know where this ends. Thankfully the rest of the museum was less nightmare inducing.

Continuing our theme of bouncing between the sublime and the ridiculous, we continued on to Ooedo-Onsen, an incredibly cheesy and hilarious hot bath complex where they dress you in a yukata (a "summer-casual" kimono) and you can throw ninja stars and eat every type of Japanese fast food before jumping into several hot springs. It was worth it, if only for the photos.

So Japan, I can say, is treating us well. The ease of getting around has been a nice revelation, with Google showing exactly where to stand on which platform in Tokyo's labyrinthine transit system, although if you can survive the London Underground I guess you're good anywhere. The language barrier hasn't been one, thanks to restaurants that offer buttons and iPads to order by. Brits and Japanese share a love of passive-aggressive politeness and being on time, making Japan less alien than the USA. I think it's time for Chevron Tokyo to recruit a certain manager from Houston...

Rid yourself of Pokemon and regain balance.

Inside.

Statues for blessings on children, each with a hat crocheted by an attentive parent/grandparent.

Pete dives into sushi.

Killer robot! Run!

Admittedly, this one might be more terrifying.

I can cope with a robot seal.

Pete plans how to take over the world.

Ooeda-Onsen.

Dressing up.

Outside at the foot baths.

It looked nice, but there were hundreds of little sticky-up stones at the bottom! Good for you, I suppose, although it didn't feel like it.

Ladies who onsen.

More ouch!

Ready to attack.

While out the back of the dining room a singing idol contest was taking place. Because why not?



Oh, and it turns out my favourite Californian coffee has a cafe in Tokyo! Several, in fact, but none in Houston. Hmph.



Final bonus picture of Oscar on his way to Japanese Kindergarten. Don't be fooled by his extreme cuteness!

Catch it before you can cook it

For some time, Tokyo has been the city that boasts the most Michelin Stars awarded to its restaurants. It's easy to see why; mixing traditional and cutting edge cuisine, the choice of food here is amazing. Walk into any nondescript eatery at random and you'll be blown away by the flavours and presentation, works of art on a plate.

Which is why we chose to eat lunch at the Pokemon Cafe.

To be fair, it may have been harder to get a table here than at many of the more celebrated venues. I had to sit online a month in advance, constantly refreshing until the day became available and I could pounce on the timeslot we wanted before it disappeared in a blink. As a result, three adults and four kids sat down to a feast of overpriced but not awful dishes shaped into the vague forms of fantasy creatures.

You only get to stay at the cafe for 90 minutes, and everyone has to order food for that privilege, but the highlight is undoubtedly when a "special guest" arrives midway through. And what do you know? Our guest was Chef Pikachu himself! Take a bunch of already hyper children, add a five foot Pikachu into the mix, see what happens. You can imagine.

We were informed in advance that we were not allowed to pose with Pikachu and could only shake him by the hand. This didn't stop Pete hugging his idol multiple times, but he also got a big public thank you from Pikachu's "minder" for bringing a picture he'd made (no joke) about six months ago when he first heard we were coming to Japan and kept for this very occasion. Many young children's minds were blown this day.

The cafe is in Tokyo's "Pokemon Centre" which is no more or less than a huge shop selling every type of Pokemon, and every type of thing on which a Pokemon can be printed. We spent a dyspeptic amount of money here too, and I waited for the credit card company to ring to check this wasn't fraudulent. They didn't, and I suspect they were too merciful to grill us with questions about how many fluffy imaginary monsters we'd purchased.

Thus everything Japan has to offer has been completed within the first few days, at least in the mind of a young boy I know. As for enjoying Michelin-starred food, we'll have to wait for Pete to grow up and leave home before we can achieve that dream...at a time when a pic of him hugging a giant Pikachu might be more embarrassing than it is now.

Some monsters are real.

And have a big building to house them.

How many do you need, Charlie?

 The wedding I always dreamed of.

Consulting the interactive Pokedex. Don't ask me what that means.

My face when I saw the prices.

Lining up for lunch.

Do you know how hard it was to get this table children?!

Teaching Pete about healthy eating and responsible budgeting.

OK, more like it!

Can you eat Pokemon?

Obviously yes.

The chef checks his customers are happy.

Mob rule.

Pikachu and Pete's pic.

Reviews ranged from the ecstatic...to Hannah.

日本での初日

Our too brief stay in Canada came to an end, but Japan was calling so what could we do? Our 'All Nippon Airways' flight had ample leg room but the stewardess gave a quizzical look when we asked for gin and tonics, and had to scurry to the galley to make them. That wouldn't happen on British Airways.

Four G&Ts later we were in Tokyo and threw ourselves upon the mercy of the transport system. It proved to be just as I imagined: clean, perfectly on time, and packed like sardines. Perhaps due to the in-flight drinking we managed to catch a train that stopped at all 44 stations between the airport and our destination of Yokosuka. But we swapped to a 'Limited Express' at the earliest opportunity and were soon met by Amanda.

She and Jack are stationed at the US navy base in Yokosuka, but that's coming to an end in July when they've been called back to the homeland. So we decided to take advantage of their hospitality while it lasted. After presenting our passports at the main base gate (being British we're immediately trusted and allowed everywhere) we were driven through what is essentially a small American city transplanted onto Tokyo Bay. McDonalds, Popeye's Chicken, Starbucks...all elements of 'civilization' are here.

Japan is several hours behind Houston time, but it's also in tomorrow! This madness translated into a 4am wake up by our darling 6-yr-old, but after a bleary breakfast it meant we were out nice and early and quickly relaxing in a local onsen.

Onsens are bathhouses, found all over Japan, fed by natural hot springs. Most of them are gender segregated, so Amanda and Hannah headed left while I got to take Pete to the right with me. There's a lot of scrubbing and cleaning yourself before you're even allowed into the water, where you get your choice of hot or cold, murky, slightly less murky, and filtered, as well as walking around an outside garden in your birthday suit, with hot rock slabs with water trickling over them that you lie on. They were the best, and Pete loved it all. I loved it too, mostly because I'd dishonestly convinced him that you have to be silent in the baths.

After that it was a ramen lunch and then a trip to a Japanese 7-11; a far more imaginative version of their American counterpart. I stocked up on snacks that I had no idea about, and was soon chomping on a giant hollow Whatsit, some cheese-filled scampi fries, and washing this down with a kind of Sprite/milk hybrid. Delicious, and it gave me energy for a trip to a bike park with fake roads, traffic lights, and one-way signs, where grumpy old men shout at children in an attempt to teach them how to ride properly. Very similar to me taking Pete and Levi to school every morning.

And this is just day one! I can't say we've found the 'real' Japan yet, but we've certainly found the real tourist Japan - a theme that will continue tomorrow with our lunch at the exclusive Pokemon Cafe...

Glad to be here!

At the onsen. Shortly after, we were naked.

Re-hydrating with a pineapple milk.

Having the ramen restaurant explained.

Fabulous food arrived so we must have done something right.

Pete and Charlie, following a theme.

It's still junk food, but it's Japanese junk food!

Fizzy milk. Certainly tasted like Calpis.

 

Learning to ride. Thankfully Japan, unlike America, drives on the correct side of the road.

Look at this lot. This is meant to be a holiday!

From out of Texas

I can see why someone may want to leave Houston for a while. There are, after all, several other places in Texas worth seeing. But departing this great state completely? Well, that's just crazy talk.

Nevertheless, we decided to head into the big scary world by taking a flight to Seattle, and from there a bus to Vancouver. Our ultimate destination is Japan, and after several hours of Internet searches I determined that this is the cheapest route. You know how much I like cheap.

Thankfully we also have many friends in those two great cities, so started off by popping in on the Pellegs only to find they'd flown to Ireland three days before. But they were kind enough to lend us their house, so we walked the city taking in the highlights. I'd forgotten what fog and clouds looked like, and also that nowhere is as flat as east Texas; Seattle has hills inside it! But the exercise allowed us to work off all the coffees and pastries we couldn't resist.

Then it was onto a bus to ride north of the border. The clouds gave way to blue skies within 20 minutes of the Seattle city limits, and immigration was very pleasant, as you'd expect from a country that shares our Queen. We were soon in a bar with Jane enjoying fabulous local beers while ice hockey played on the TVs.

Sunday was spent on a visit to our old stomping ground of Christ Church Cathedral, followed by a picnic in the sunshine. The picnic field was conveniently close to an outside bar, so the kids sat on a blanket while the adults chatted and sampled some more of the local liquid produce.

It's been a fabulous start to the holidays, and a reminder of the entirely different vibe that the Pacific Northwest has to...pretty much anywhere else in North America. People talk about climate change here! And recycling! I don't want to prejudge what Mr Trump is going to say to the Queen during his visit this week, but I'm not sure those will be top of the agenda.

Tray tables in their upright position etc.

A hill! No wonder everyone here is so fit.

Seattle breakfast.

Who's that trip-trapping over my bridge?

Theo Chocolate Factory, with unlimited free samples!

Tourists.

Meeting up with Florin...and a large friend.

Basketball with Agam.

Schooling Arbel.

Some Junior Catan. Almost as competitive as their parents.

The emotional sight of Vancouver again.

Canada Place.

Float planes, Stanley Park, and a wistful look.

Dinner and drinks with Jane.

Catching the water taxi home.