After the sizeable hustle and not inconsiderable bustle of the metropolis, we decided to take a couple of days and see the real Japan. And by real, I mean a very touristy spot in the mountains just west of the city. Most importantly, this gave us a chance to travel on the shinkansen, or bullet train.
Although Britain invented the train (and everything else) it's the Japanese who have perfected it, with these sleek aerodynamic conveyances connecting the country at blistering speeds. Inside is roomy and spotless, and that's just the masses traveling in "unreserved" carriages. You can upgrade to
Green Cars and even
Gran Class, but no matter how you go the only problem is how quickly it's over; in a blink we were alighting at Odawara on our way to Hakone.
From there our final destination was Gora, and this involved a switch to a train that was less of a bullet and more of a snail as it climbed up the mountains. At various stations the train reverses direction so as to zig-zag into the trees and thinning air, along the second steepest railway in the world, the recorded historical announcer told us. What amazed me was how many people were commuting, plenty of locals among us sightseers, and all our train travel has shown me how things in Japan - even public transit! - are designed to relieve human stress, whereas our Anglo-Saxon culture seems to exist with the opposite intention. Thank goodness I'm a Celt.
Talking of relaxing, Hannah had booked us into a hotel with our own hot spring in the room, a big stone tub on a balcony, accessed through the shower. We also got traditional
yukata robes to wear around in an attempt to blend in, and a Japanese breakfast. Unfortunately Mt Fuji, away on the horizon, was shrouded in mist as it usually is, but with city sounds replaced by rustling leaves and running springs it was all wonderfully calming. I may have finally recovered from visiting the Pokemon Cafe.
Trains: keeping Tokyo moving.
That's our one there.
Pulling in.
All aboard!
Whisked away at 200mph.
Changing to something a little slower as the incline increases.
One of the switchbacks/track changes. Even the smallest station had a staff of two or three.
This area is famous for its hydrangeas. The higher up the mountains, the later they flower.
Just what you want to see when you arrive.
Lunch.
Walking around the beautiful Gora public gardens.
Photo credit: Pete.
Hothouse flowers.
Clearing head and lungs.
In the hotel.
The greatest invention ever! Socks you can comfortably wear with sandals!! I knew Japan was technologically advanced, but I never suspected something so revolutionary.
Pete catches up on Japanese kids' TV. Does he understand it? Does he care?
Our own private onsen. Well, private until I put this pic on the Internet.
Pete's major love in Japan, apart from Pikachu, is toilet-going. We've had to put a ban on his bathroom habits due to the amount of time he spends in there. He also admitted that he didn't realise the multiple water sprays were for cleaning yourself, he thought they were there "because it feels nice".
On a funicular the next day. Only the crazy Europeans (i.e. Hannah) would hike an extra 200m up a mountain to take another railway down.
Back on the bullet train with a bento.
Hmm. But thankfully nothing to do with us.
