We started with a saunter over the Kura - the river that runs through the centre of the city - via The Bridge of Peace. Opened in 2010 it follows the same design idea as the other post-USSR official buildings made of glass, which is unsurprising given the same Italian architect seems to have a monopoly. He must love Georgian wine.
We moved from modern to ancient as we walked to Sioni Cathedral. It's everything you would expect from a church in this region, with fantastically ornate ceilings and icons everywhere. It also houses St. Nino's Cross, constructed out of vines and the saint's own hair - the first cross ever to be made in the region, in the 4th Century, hence the improvised materials. But the one on display is only a replica, with the real one in a safe somewhere in the back, so obviously no miracles took place today.
We then followed up with a Georgian lunch. I will admit to some trepidation after the grape-and-flour-dipped-walnut-string, but the khinkali we were served were delicious! They're little (quite large, actually) stuffed pasta dumplings, and are available filled with a variety of things but, most deliciously, spiced meat in a soupy broth. As Claire taught me, you nibble a little hole, slurp everything liquid out, and then eat it, consuming all but the little stalk/handle thing at the top. After that was some kidney bean-filled bread (UPDATE: Vince tells me this is called lobiani), having enjoyed a cheese-stuffed version known as khachapuri as we wandered (according to a 2009 survey 88% of Georgians prefer khachapuri to pizza).
Overall, I have to describe Georgian cuisine as "bland". Coming from an Englishman this could be a compliment, and it vaguely is, but given that we had Indian for dinner the first night, and Thai for the second, actions might speak louder than words. Oh, and service during lunch wasn't great because the two male servers were glued to a women's weightlifting competition taking place next door in Kazakhstan.
Another fascinating aspect of Georgian culture is loitering. There are always groups of men standing around, identically dressed in blue jeans and black jackets. It feels strange at first, as though you're always being watched, but as Christine explained it's often a function of three generations living together in a small flat - where else can you go to find some space? There isn't much obvious poverty on display (you see far more homeless people in Vancouver) but plenty of general disrepair. This is offset by the modern architecture and the demolition of single-storey buildings to make way for blocks of flats, but like many post-Communist places there seems to be a lot of money in a few hands.
We ascended above the city by taking a funicular up to Mtatsminda Park. This is a Georgian Disneyland, and understandably loved by Claire, JJ, and their friend Tennent who joined us with his mum. It's a very compelling mix of roller-coasters, animatronic dinosaurs, a ferris wheel, and a Soviet-era television aerial. It also had a nice coffee shop.
By the time we'd finished running about up there, dusk was falling. We drove home, through the mad and amazing traffic, to find Vince asleep after a hard day of overseeing military manoeuvers with his visiting general. When he woke up he confessed that "manoeuvers" included a three-hour lunch with some Georgian supreme commander and lots of booze. "They have a culture of making multiple toasts," he claimed. "I had to keep up - it's my job." The mystery of why the USA wants strong ties with Georgia is solved.
JJ's mix of US and Canadian culture marks him out as a future diplomat, just like his dad.
Christine doles out the khachapuri.
Claire bites.
JJ chews.
How many people eat this stuff? Plenty, obviously.
A bar - strictly for tourists.
The Bridge of Peace. See how nicely this brother and sister are standing together?
The river Kura.
This is a statue of "Mother", up on her hill to celebrate Tbilisi's 1500th anniversary. Not a bad chunk of history, that.
Someone handsomely modelling a papakha or "astrakhan", a popular hat in the Caucasus. The Georgians like to wear it shaggier than others...
Sioni Cathedral, where at least three weddings had just taken place. There were some "brave" bridal decisions on dress, including white leather skirts.
The beautiful interior.
Holy water was dispensed outside - this was one in a line of around fifteen taps.
No idea what this statue is about, but JJ wanted to sit on it.
And then so did Claire.
That man on his horse on the left? King David the Builder. Can't be much wrong with that fellow.
Down to Georgian cuisine.
Claire and khinkali.
Heading up the 500m funicular.
"Selfie!" proclaimed Claire. "How do you know the word 'selfie'?" I enquired.
Looking down.
Yep, just like Disneyland.
Fun, and a geo-political lesson; a number of contested regions are listed as Georgian on that backdrop.
Up goes C!
Up go JJ & T!
The TV tower. Christine tells me that every ex-Soviet country she's visited has one identical, and she intends to collect pictures of each.
You can legally ride dinosaurs in Georgia.
Looking at Tbilisi. A bit smoggy.
And who's this, commemorated with a gold statue on a column right in the centre of the city, riding a horse and slaying a dragon? Only St. George, patron saint of England! I was advised not to say this to any Georgians. Georgia...St. George...I suppose they do have a fairly strong claim.
