Wednesday 15 October 2008

Porridge

It was back on the tourist trail today. I've been resisting Alcatraz due to its status as a San Francisco cliche, but I have to do everything my sister tells me so we were soon on a ferry sailing across the Bay.

What can I say? It turned out to be one of the best things that SF has to offer! Alcatraz is owned by the National Park Service which means that rangers in Canadian Mounty hats patrol the place. As if that wasn't enough, all seem to be world experts on the island. As soon as we arrived we spent over an hour on a tour with Ranger Al who described the life and times of the more famous inmates including the "Birdman" Robert Stroud, Al Capone and George "Machine Gun" Kelly.

We then wandered the prison, much smaller than I imagined with an average of only 260 prisoners at any time. The place retains a scary atmosphere, and standing in "the hole", a solitary confinement cell kept in total darkness, was pretty disturbing. Yet guards lived on the island with their families, and a lady who grew up there described going to sleep listening to the prisoners shouting ("they're just letting off steam" her mother told her).

When the prison was decommissioned the island was occupied by Native Americans and the publicity generated was central to the founding of the reserves and a Presidential apology (from Nixon, for what it was worth...) And most recently, of course, it was the backdrop to one of the greatest films of the modern day. Welcome to The Rock!



You can't sight see on an empty stomach.



So cute! But actually a deadly killer.



So cute! But actually a deadly killer.



Obligatory bird(man) of Alcatraz photo.



One-way ticket.



Looking back from the boat.



Ranger John gives us a quick orientation.



There we go.



Ranger Al talks below a guard tower.



The accommodation...



...5 star.



Well, getting out obviously can't have been that difficult.



Emily in solitary confinement. If we'd had one of these at home, my childhood would have been much more straightforward.



The library.



The view from the island.



This inhabitant had no problem getting around.



From the control room. The guards had a nicer time than the prisoners.



20 years inside and this is my first visitor.



The kitchen. Alcatraz had a reputation as one of the best places for prison food. Hmmm...